5 September 2010 |
Sometimes the whole concept is just wrong. I snapped this picture at Bofinger, the classic French brasserie, on my last visit to Paris, where this brochure seemed starkly out of place. Bofinger is more than a century old, with leather banquettes, polished brass, white linen, well-used silver, and a stunning stained-glass dome. The menu is [...]
Visit the Basilica San Marco at 9:30 in the morning, about a half hour before the tour groups arrive. We climbed the steep stairs to the balcony, and had the outdoor roof terrace, overlooking the piazza, almost completely to ourselves. They charge three euros to access the balcony now, and inside they have created a [...]
The Hotel Villa Igea, right on the Campo San Zaccaria, was a real find: comfortable, quiet, conveniently located. It had two lovely terraces overlooking the largely unvisited campo (despite being a steps from the main vaporetto stop as well as a short walk to Piazza San Marco.) We were fortunate too in having the very [...]
Perhaps nowhere has as many beautiful sites to see as Venice, so it can be quite a challenge to tear yourself away from the city’s main sestieri. Still, Venice comprises many far flung islands, each with its own character. If you have more than a few days to explore the area, trips to the outlying [...]
The only restaurant guide worth having is Venice Osterie, a slim volume available in English, and on sale in Venice (and perhaps nowhere else). Even this requires some reading between the lines, and won’t include the obscure, bargainy places seemingly known only to locals. For some dining suggestions, see my previous post: Venice Restaurant picks
A very busy day of non-stop walking through Venice. It’s been a gray day, but no real rain, just a few drops as we headed back on the vaporetto from Rialto. Otherwise it’s been all walking since 9:30 this morning. We began by going to the nearby San Zaccaria Church, where they have the body [...]
We found a coffee bar near the fish market where they had a special grinder that ground a happy face of cinnamon on top of the cappuccino. We found a bar where the Spritz Aperol cocktail cost a mere Euro fifty (and was inhabited by an eccentric cast of locals: Sailors from the Arsenale, a [...]
We ate twice, this visit, at what I call the secret lunch place. I’ll never (publicly) reveal it’s location. This almost hidden restaurant is open only for lunch and frequented by local workers; there are no English menus and only minimal spoken English. Lunch is 18 Euros (up from 15 two years ago) and includes [...]
Guidebooks, and even recent articles on Venice seemed of little use, and in fact we rarely used our maps. It’s important to settle into the slow rhythm of the city—a slowness dictated by the complete absence of cars and scooters, and the necessity of walking everywhere in a city of tangled alleyways in which it [...]
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